What Is a Rolex Submariner

The Rolex Submariner is the benchmark luxury dive watch. Introduced as a professional tool for underwater exploration, it has evolved into one of the most recognizable and desirable watches ever made. While its roots are firmly planted in function, timing dives, resisting pressure, and remaining legible in harsh conditions, the Submariner today lives just as comfortably under a cuff as it does underwater.

At its core, the Submariner is defined by balance. It blends sport and luxury better than almost any other watch, which is exactly why it works for first-time Rolex buyers, seasoned collectors, and everyone in between. Few watches manage to feel timeless while still remaining relevant decade after decade. The Submariner is one of them.

History of Rolex Submariner Watches

The Submariner debuted in the early 1950s, during a period when recreational diving was gaining momentum. Rolex identified a need for a robust, water-resistant wristwatch that could be relied on underwater, and the Submariner was born.

Early references were rated to 100 meters, which was groundbreaking at the time. As materials and engineering advanced, Rolex steadily increased depth ratings, improved lume performance, and refined case construction. Over the decades, crown guards were added, sapphire crystals replaced acrylic, and movements became more precise and shock-resistant.

Despite these technical upgrades, the Submariner’s visual identity has remained remarkably consistent. This continuity is intentional. Rolex rarely reinvents icons; instead, it perfects them quietly over time.

Rolex Submariner Models

The Submariner family is smaller than many people expect, but every variation has meaning.

There are two primary categories: Submariner Date and the standard Submariner (commonly known as the No-Date). The no-date models stay closest to the original design language, offering a symmetrical dial that purists love. Date models add practicality and have become the more popular option in the modern market.

Materials also differentiate models. Stainless steel (Oystersteel) remains the most in-demand, while Rolesor (steel and gold) and solid gold versions appeal to buyers looking for added presence and luxury. Bezel colors, most commonly black or green, further define the personality of each reference.

Rolex Submariner Reference Number Lookup

Rolex Submariner reference numbers tell a detailed story if you know how to read them. Older four- and five-digit references identify vintage and neo-vintage pieces, while six-digit references represent modern production with ceramic bezels and updated movements.

Earlier aluminum bezel Submariners fall under references like 5513 or 16610, while modern ceramic models introduced a new generation with upgraded proportions and mechanics. Reference numbers also help distinguish case size, bezel material, metal type, and whether the watch includes a date function.

Understanding the reference number is essential when buying, valuing, or collecting a Submariner.

Rolex Submariner Prices

Rolex Submariner prices depend heavily on reference, condition, completeness, and overall market timing. While retail pricing is set by Rolex, most buyers today encounter the Submariner through the secondary market due to limited availability at authorized dealers.

Modern stainless steel Submariners typically trade above retail, driven by global demand and controlled supply. Vintage references, particularly well-preserved examples with original dials and components, can command significant premiums depending on rarity and provenance.

For a deeper breakdown of current values, appreciation trends, and what impacts pricing the most, see our full market analysis here: How Much Is My Rolex Submariner?

Rolex Submariner Retail vs Secondary Market

At retail, purchasing a Submariner often involves waitlists, purchase history, and timing that is largely outside the buyer’s control. While the official retail price is lower, access is limited and unpredictable.

The secondary market offers immediate availability and a wider selection of references, including discontinued and vintage models. Prices are higher, but buyers gain certainty, speed, and choice. For many collectors, the secondary market is the only realistic path to ownership.

The tradeoff is simple: wait and hope at retail, or pay a premium for certainty.

Rolex Submariner Nicknames

Few watches generate as many widely accepted nicknames as the Submariner. These names are community-driven and typically tied to bezel color, dial color, or a defining visual trait. Over time, these nicknames have become shorthand among collectors and often influence desirability and pricing.

Common Rolex Submariner nicknames include:

• Rolex Hulk: Features a green dial paired with a green bezel, produced in stainless steel and known for its bold, monochromatic look.
• Rolex Kermit: Identified by its green bezel and black dial, originally released to celebrate the Submariner’s anniversary.
• Rolex Starbucks: A modern evolution of the green bezel Submariner, featuring a black dial with a green ceramic bezel.
• Rolex Bluesy: A two-tone Submariner crafted in steel and yellow gold, paired with a blue dial and blue bezel.
• Rolex Smurf: A white gold Submariner with a blue dial and blue bezel, easily recognized by its solid precious metal construction.
• Rolex Cookie Monster: The modern successor to the Smurf, this white gold Submariner features a black dial paired with a blue ceramic bezel.
• Rolex No-Date Sub: A nickname often used for Submariners without a date window, valued for their clean and symmetrical dial layout.

These nicknames simplify communication in the market and help buyers quickly understand a watch’s configuration without referencing full model details.

Rolex Submariner User Guide

Owning a Submariner is refreshingly straightforward. The unidirectional bezel is designed for timing events, the screw-down crown ensures water resistance, and the automatic movement keeps the watch running with regular wear.

For a step-by-step walkthrough on setting the time, date, and bezel, along with best practices for daily use and care, read our full guide here: How To Use My Rolex Submariner.

Where To Buy an Authentic Rolex Submariner

Buying an authentic Rolex Submariner starts with understanding the basics. Always verify the seller’s reputation, confirm reference details, review condition carefully, and ensure the watch includes correct components. Transparent documentation and clear communication are essential, especially when buying pre-owned or vintage examples.

This is where WatchGuys stands apart.

WatchGuys is one of the most trusted online watch dealers, built on years of experience in the luxury watch market. With thousands of positive online reviews, a proven track record, and a deep understanding of Rolex watches, WatchGuys offers buyers confidence at every step of the process. Every Rolex Submariner is carefully vetted for authenticity, accurately described, and competitively priced.

For buyers who value trust, experience, and straightforward pricing, WatchGuys remains a reliable destination for authentic Rolex Submariners.

Rolex Submariner Specifications

While individual references vary by era and material, the specifications below define the Submariner as a category and explain why it remains Rolex’s most versatile professional watch.

Bracelet

The Submariner is fitted with Rolex’s Oyster bracelet, designed for durability and comfort. Early bracelets featured lighter construction, while modern Submariners use fully solid links. Contemporary models include the Glidelock clasp system, allowing precise micro-adjustments without tools.

Case

While early 1950s models measured roughly 37mm, the Submariner soon established the 40mm case as the industry standard for dive watches. Modern Submariners have evolved slightly, with current production models measuring 41mm. Despite the increase, proportions remain balanced thanks to refined lugs, crown guards, and Oyster case architecture.

Material

Oystersteel forms the foundation of most Submariners and is prized for its corrosion resistance and ability to maintain a polished finish over time. Rolex also offers Submariners in Rolesor, which is Rolex’s combination of stainless steel and gold. Rolesor models blend sport functionality with added visual presence, while solid gold Submariners push the collection into full luxury territory.

Bezel

The unidirectional timing bezel is one of the Submariner’s defining features. Vintage and neo-vintage models use aluminum bezel inserts, while modern Submariners feature Cerachrom ceramic bezels that resist scratches and fading. The bezel remains essential both functionally and visually.

Dial

Submariner dials are designed for maximum legibility. High-contrast layouts, applied hour markers, and luminous materials ensure readability in all conditions. Buyers can choose between date and no-date configurations, depending on their preference for symmetry or everyday practicality.