Rolex is known to use only the best materials when it comes to watchmaking. Not all stainless steel is created equally, and Rolex knew that when they began creating their own in-house 904L stainless steel (known as “Oystersteel”).
While most other luxury brands—like Omega, TAG Heuer, or Breitling—use industry standard 316L stainless steel, Rolex chose to upgrade.
In this blog, we will break down the differences between 316L and 904L stainless steel, and why Rolex began to craft their very own stainless steel.
What is the Value of My Rolex Watch
316L Stainless Steel vs 904L Oystersteel
316L stainless steel is often called “surgical steel” or “marine-grade steel.” It is often used in watchmaking because it is resistant to corrosion, durable, and relatively easy to work with.
904L Oystersteel, on the other hand, is higher-performing than 316L stainless steel. It has higher levels of chromium, nickel, and molybdenum—with some copper added into the mix. This mixture of ingredients makes Oystersteel far more resistant to corrosion, especially in harsh environments. This is why Rolex diving watches are the top choices for divers, as they are very resistant to pitting and corrosion.
904L Oystersteel has the added advantage of polishing to a higher luster than 316L stainless steel, allowing a Rolex watch to polish to a higher shine and “brighter,” whiter, shade of silver with a jewel-like sparkle.
So, not only does 904L Oystersteel have higher resistance to corrosion, it also has an overall better appearance.
Why Rolex Uses Oystersteel
Rolex began experimenting with 904L steel in the 1970s and 1980s when they noticed that Rolex dive watches were arriving at their service centers with corrosion in the case threads and case backs. Salt from seawater and sweat were making their way into the screw threads and caused pitting in 316L steel.
As a brand obsessed with longevity, Rolex needed a solution for this issue. And 904L Oystersteel was the clear choice.
In 1985, Rolex made the move to become the first watchmaker to use 904L Oystersteel in their dive watches. This switch dramatically improved the longevity of their Submariner and Sea-Dweller models, improving their to sweat and salt water resistance.
Throughout the 1990s, Rolex started using 904L in more of their models before switching all steel models to this material in the early 2000s.
This switch fixed the longevity issues that Rolex started was observing in their older models, and meant that their watches could be polished up to look brand new. Thanks to this switch, a well-kept Rolex can still look pristine for generations, even after surviving deep dives and everyday hits.
