The Stella Dials Revolution
The Stella dial has emerged as one of the most distinctive and sought-after design elements in the history of Rolex watches. Once a rare and unconventional feature found on select Rolex Day-Date models in the 1970s, these high-gloss, lacquered dials in vivid colors are now at the center of a modern collecting renaissance.
Rolex’s decision to revisit the Stella aesthetic in 2020 with a range of colorful Oyster Perpetual models ignited renewed interest across both vintage and contemporary markets. Enthusiasts call it the “Stella Dials Revolution”, as bold hues reemerge in a product line long defined by understatement and tradition.
The Rolex Day-Date 1803 with a vivid coral red Stella dial, an iconic example of Rolex’s bold 1970s enamel-lacquer craftsmanship.
What began as an experimental, regionally targeted design choice has evolved into a cultural symbol representing both Rolex’s artistic range and its ability to tap into shifting tastes while maintaining timeless appeal.
What is a Stella Dial?
The story of the Stella dials began in the 1970s when Rolex, famed for its timeless design language, made an audacious pivot by adding glossy enamel-lacquer dials to its flagship Day-Date “President” models. These were produced in vivid, opaque colors like turquoise, coral red, and canary yellow. The nickname “Stella” refers to the Stella S.A. company in Geneva, which supplied the lacquer pigments used in the dials.
The Rolex Day-Date 18038 featuring a blue Stella dial, crafted in 18k yellow gold with Rolex’s signature high-lacquer enamel finish.
Originally produced in limited quantities often targeted at Middle Eastern and Asian markets where bold colors were favored, these watches were outliers in the otherwise conservative Rolex catalog. Today, they are celebrated for their rarity and character.
Fast forward to the 2020s, and Rolex has reignited this colorful legacy. Launching Oyster Perpetual models in vibrant hues reminiscent of the original Stellas, the brand had once again captivated collectors. These timepieces now blend vintage allure with modern luxury, marking a pivotal cultural and horological moment.
Stella Dial Colors and Features
Color Choices
Take one look at a Rolex Stella dial and it’s easy to see why it turns heads. The design is an exercise in fearless color. Unlike the typical Rolex palette of silver, black, or champagne, Stella dials came in vibrant enamel shades such as:
- Turquoise Blue
- Canary Yellow
- Pumpkin Orange
- Coral Red
- Bright Pink
- Forest Green
- Mauve Purple
Left: A classic Rolex Day-Date 18038 black dial, timeless and formal. Right: The same reference in a vibrant green Stella dial, showcasing Rolex’s bold 1970s-era experimentation with color and material.
These dials weren’t simply painted; they were crafted with a high-gloss lacquer technique involving multiple coats, oven baking between layers, and hand polishing to create a mirror-like finish. The result? A jewel-tone dial with silky depth and glassy luster that transformed each watch into wearable art.
Vintage Stella: Day-Date References
The original Stella dials were produced for a select number of Rolex Day-Date references in the 1970s and early 1980s. These include:
Rolex Day-Date References with Stella Dials
| Photo | Reference | Material | Crystal | Key Features |
|---|---|---|---|---|
|
1803 | 18k Yellow/White/Rose Gold | Acrylic | Non-quickset, pie-pan dial, classic Stella origin |
|
18038 | 18k Yellow Gold | Sapphire | Quickset date, upgraded movement, popular for colored dials |
|
18039 | 18k White Gold | Sapphire | Rare White gold configuration with Stella dials |
|
18078 | 18k Yellow Gold | Sapphire | “Bark” or “Florentine” bezel and bracelet finish, some with diamonds |
Vintage Stella dials were housed exclusively in precious metal Day-Date cases such as, yellow gold, white gold, or platinum. Some versions featured diamond hour markers or baguette indices, enhancing their opulence. Others retained baton markers, allowing the vivid dial color to take center stage.
Oyster Perpetual Stella-Inspired Dials
In 2020, Rolex revived the color-forward concept by introducing a range of Oyster Perpetual models with lacquered dials reminiscent of Stella originals. Available in 31mm, 34mm, 36mm, and 41mm sizes, key references include 277200, 124200, 126000, and 124300.
These modern Oyster Perpetuals feature bold dial colors such as turquoise blue, coral red, yellow, green, and candy pink—paying tribute to the original Stella aesthetic with a playful, minimalist twist.
- Turquoise Blue
- Coral Red
- Yellow
- Green
- Candy Pink
Left: The vintage Rolex Day-Date 1803 with a yellow Stella dial. Right: The modern Rolex Oyster Perpetual 126000 Yellow, a playful steel reinterpretation of Stella colorways for today’s collectors.
These models, though housed in stainless steel cases and lacking the day complication, share the same bold, minimalist ethos. Their time-only layout allows the lacquered dial to shine, making them modern tributes to the Stella legacy, only now with broader appeal and daily wearability.
The Art and Engineering Behind Rolex Stella Dials
Beyond their looks, Stella dial Rolexes are fascinating in their technical details and artisanal execution. At the heart of the Stella dial legacy is the Rolex Day-Date, famously known as the “President.” Introduced in 1956, it was the first watch to display both the day and date in full, a milestone in Rolex history.
Every vintage Stella dial Day-Date from the 1970s and ’80s features a 36mm case crafted in 18k yellow, white, or rose gold. Paired with the iconic President bracelet, these watches strike a perfect balance between substance and style. Inside beats a robust, self-winding Rolex movement certified for chronometric precision.
Mastering the Lacquer Dial
Where the magic truly lies is in the dial-making process. Rolex collaborated with companies like Stella S.A. and Stern Frères to apply layers of richly pigmented lacquer. Each dial underwent:
- Multiple spray-painted coats of enamel
- Oven-baking between each layer for curing
- A final clear lacquer topcoat for added gloss and durability
This process produced a depth and brilliance unmatched by typical matte or sunburst dials. Over time, many vintage Stellas developed fine cracks or “spidering,” which collectors often celebrate as proof of authenticity and patina.
The Rolex Day-Date 1803 with an oxblood red Stella dial—an elegant and moody colorway from Rolex’s bold 1970s lacquer series, cased in 18k gold.
Modern Upgrades, Vintage Soul
The modern Oyster Perpetual Stella-inspired models bring technical upgrades like sapphire crystals, anti-magnetic materials, and Calibre 3230 movements with 70-hour power reserves. While they lack the day complication and precious metal cases, they democratize the vibrant legacy of the Stella design in a more wearable, casual format.
Price, Rarity, and the Secondary Market
Vintage Stella Dial Day-Dates
When it comes to pricing, vintage Stella dial Day-Dates command serious premiums. Their rarity, especially in colors like mauve, pink, or turquoise, makes them coveted grails for Rolex collectors. Prices for pristine examples can range from $60,000 to well over $150,000, especially when paired with diamonds or unusual configurations.
Even more common vintage colors like oxblood or orange easily exceed standard Day-Date values by two to three times. Auction houses have featured Stella dials as marquee lots in recent years, reflecting their growing prominence in the vintage market.
Modern Oyster Perpetual “Stella-Inspired” Models
The modern Oyster Perpetuals with Stella-style dials caused a major stir after their 2020 debut. Initially retailing for around $5,000 to $6,000, high-demand colors like turquoise blue, coral red, and candy pink surged on the resale market to $18,000–$30,000; nearly 4–5x their original prices, especially after Rolex abruptly discontinued several of them.
While prices have slightly cooled from their peak, many of these OP references still trade for double or triple retail, reflecting ongoing demand. The OP 36 in candy pink has emerged as a standout favorite among younger and style-driven collectors, particularly those seeking expressive, high-quality watches with personality.
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual 126000 in candy pink—a modern Stella-inspired dial that blends playful color with Rolex’s minimalist, time-only design.
Investment and Collectibility Outlook
Whether vintage or modern, these watches offer more than just good looks, they’re cultural assets with long-term value. For seasoned collectors, vintage Stellas represent historical rarity and prestige. For new buyers, the OP line offers a gateway into Rolex collecting with a colorful twist and promising appreciation potential.
Final Thoughts
In a world where monochrome dials and tool watches dominate, the Rolex Stella dial revolution offers a colorful and expressive alternative. These watches go beyond collectibility, they’re cultural statements that marry fearless design with Rolex’s impeccable craftsmanship.
For vintage collectors, Stella dial Day-Dates represent rarity and storytelling. A tangible link to Rolex’s experimental era of the 1970s. For modern buyers, the Oyster Perpetual’s vibrant revival signals a desire for individuality and joyful design in a world of grayscale minimalism.
Whether you’re making a personal style statement or investing in horological history, one thing is clear: Rolex has brought color back to the crown and the world is taking notice.
