The Definitive Resource
Rolex Explorer II Buyer's Guide
Everything you need to know about the Rolex Explorer II, from the original 1655 to the current 226570. History, reference numbers, pricing, specs, and expert buying advice.
Shop Rolex Explorer IITHE ESSENTIALS
What Is a Rolex Explorer II?
A professional GMT watch built for explorers who need to tell day from night in complete darkness.
The Rolex Explorer II is a professional-grade GMT watch that Rolex introduced in 1971. It was designed specifically for speleologists, polar researchers, and anyone working in environments where natural light cues are absent. Its defining features are a fixed 24-hour bezel, a bold orange (or red, depending on the generation) GMT hand, and a date display at 3 o'clock with a Cyclops magnification lens. Unlike the rotating bezels found on the Rolex Submariner or Rolex GMT-Master II, the Explorer II's bezel is permanently fixed, engraved directly into the steel.
The current production model is the reference 226570, released in 2021 for the collection's 50th anniversary. It houses the Caliber 3285 movement with 70 hours of power reserve, sits in a 42mm Oystersteel case, and is offered with either a black dial or the iconic white "Polar" dial. The independently adjustable GMT hand can track a second time zone, making the Explorer II as practical for frequent travelers as it is for actual cave explorers.
Within the broader Rolex lineup, the Explorer II occupies a unique space. It is one of the brand's most tool-oriented watches, yet it trades at a lower premium than the Submariner or GMT-Master II on the secondary market. For buyers who want a serious Rolex sports watch with genuine heritage and real-world utility, the Explorer II is one of the most compelling options in the catalog.
AT A GLANCE
Rolex Explorer II Review
Everything you need to know before buying a Rolex Explorer II, summarized for buyers short on time.
The Rolex Explorer II is the watch for buyers who want a legitimate Rolex sports watch with a genuine tool-watch pedigree, GMT functionality, and a price point that does not require a second mortgage. It is arguably the most underrated model in the Rolex Professional lineup.
Rolex launched the Explorer II in 1971 as a cave exploration instrument, and it has evolved through five references over 50+ years. Each generation refined the movement, case size, and finishing, but the core identity, a rugged GMT watch with a fixed 24-hour bezel and bold arrow hand, never changed. The current 226570 represents the most technically advanced version, sharing its Caliber 3285 movement with the GMT-Master II.
On the secondary market, the current-production 226570 trades between roughly $10,500 and $13,500 depending on dial color and condition. The discontinued 216570 sits around $7,500 to $10,000, and the long-running 16570 can be found for $7,000 to $9,500. Compared to the GMT-Master II, the Explorer II delivers the same core functionality at a significantly lower cost of entry.
The biggest decision most buyers face is the dial color: the white "Polar" dial is the Explorer II's signature look and typically commands a slight premium, while the black dial offers a more understated and versatile aesthetic. Both have strong followings, and both hold value well.
From an investment perspective, the Explorer II has historically been a steady performer rather than a speculative play. It is not the Rolex you buy to flip. It is the Rolex you buy to wear every day for the next twenty years. That reliability, combined with its rising popularity among collectors, makes it a smart long-term purchase.
Keep reading for the full breakdown of every reference, current pricing, specifications, and our expert buying checklist.
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Shop Rolex Explorer IIORIGIN STORY
History of the Rolex Explorer II
From a cave exploration tool that gathered dust on dealer shelves to one of Rolex's most respected sports watches.
The Explorer II's story begins in 1971, but its roots trace back to the original Rolex Explorer, introduced in 1953 after the historic first ascent of Mount Everest. While the Explorer was a simple, legible time-only watch for mountaineers, Rolex identified a different challenge: speleologists (cave explorers) needed a way to track whether it was day or night during extended periods underground. The Explorer II was the answer.
The first reference, the 1655, was not a commercial success. Its unconventional dial design, with stick hands instead of the familiar Mercedes style and a large orange arrow hand, struck many buyers as too busy and difficult to read. Rolex even enlisted Steve McQueen's image in Italian advertisements to boost sales, though no evidence exists that McQueen ever actually wore the watch. Despite its rocky start, the 1655 is now one of the most sought-after vintage Rolex references in existence.
Over the following decades, Rolex steadily refined the Explorer II. The 16550 introduced true GMT functionality in 1985. The 16570 ran for an impressive 22 years and became the reference most people associate with the collection. The 216570 brought modern proportions in 2011, and the current 226570 delivered a state-of-the-art movement in 2021.
Questions About Explorer II References?
Our specialists can help you understand the differences between generations and find the right reference for your collection.
Call Us Text UsKNOW YOUR WATCH
Rolex Explorer II Reference Numbers
Every Explorer II reference produced since 1971, organized by generation with key specifications.
The Rolex Explorer II has been produced under five main reference numbers across its 50+ year history. Understanding each reference is essential for making an informed purchase, as the differences in movement technology, case size, and design details significantly affect both wearability and value. The table below covers every major reference, from the vintage 1655 through the current-production 226570. If you need help decoding Rolex reference numbers in general, our dedicated resource page breaks down the full system.
| Ref. | Size | Material | Bezel | Movement | Production |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1655 | 39mm | Stainless Steel | Fixed Steel, 24-Hour | Cal. 1575 | 1971–1984 |
| 16550 | 40mm | Stainless Steel | Fixed Steel, 24-Hour | Cal. 3085 | 1985–1989 |
| 16570 | 40mm | Stainless Steel | Fixed Steel, 24-Hour | Cal. 3185 / 3186 | 1989–2011 |
| 216570 | 42mm | Oystersteel | Fixed Steel, 24-Hour | Cal. 3187 | 2011–2021 |
| 226570 | 42mm | Oystersteel | Fixed Steel, 24-Hour | Cal. 3285 | 2021–Present |
Reading the Reference Number
"The Explorer II is one of the simplest Rolex collections to navigate because it has only been produced in stainless steel. There are no gold or two-tone variants to sort through. Your main variables are generation (which determines the movement and case size) and dial color. If you see a 16570 with drilled lugs, it is an earlier example from before roughly 2003. If the lugs are solid, it is a later production piece with the updated Caliber 3186. That movement upgrade matters for long-term serviceability."
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How Much Does a Rolex Explorer II Cost?
Current retail and secondary market pricing for every Explorer II generation.
The Rolex Explorer II is one of the most accessible Rolex Professional models on the secondary market. Unlike the Submariner or GMT-Master II, where pre-owned prices regularly exceed retail, the Explorer II can often be found at or near its retail price. That said, pricing varies significantly by reference, dial color, condition, and completeness. The Polar (white) dial consistently commands a slight premium over the black dial across every generation. Below are the current secondary market ranges alongside the 2026 retail price where applicable. Rolex implemented an approximately 7% price increase in January 2026, bringing the 226570's retail price to around $10,600 USD.
Current Production
226570 Polar (White Dial)
Current Production
226570 Black Dial
Discontinued
216570 Polar or Black
Neo-Vintage
16570 Polar or Black
Transitional / Collector
16550 (Cream or Black)
Vintage / Collector
1655 "Freccione"
Key Pricing Factors
"The Explorer II is one of the best values in the Rolex sport lineup right now. You get the same Caliber 3285 that powers the GMT-Master II at a fraction of the secondary market cost. When I look at the 226570, I see a watch trading near retail, and that is unusual for a current-production Rolex Professional model. For buyers on a budget, the 216570 is the sweet spot. You get the 42mm case, the orange hand, and a solid modern movement for roughly $8,000. If the watch has box and papers, you are set. Condition and completeness are the two biggest drivers of price across every reference."
BUYING OPTIONS
Retail vs. Secondary Market
Where to buy a Rolex Explorer II and what to expect from each channel.
The Rolex Explorer II is more accessible at authorized dealers than many other Professional models, but availability still depends on your relationship with the dealer and current demand. The Explorer II does not carry the same hype-driven waitlists as the Daytona or GMT-Master II, but walking into an AD and walking out with one the same day is still unlikely. On the secondary market, the Explorer II offers immediate availability, a wider selection of both current and discontinued references, and competitive pricing. For buyers who want a specific dial color, a discontinued generation, or a vintage reference, the secondary market is the only option.
| Retail (Authorized Dealer) | Secondary Market (Pre-Owned) | |
|---|---|---|
| Price | $10,600 MSRP (2026) | $10,500 – $13,500 (226570) |
| Availability | Waitlist required, shorter than most Professional models | No waitlist, multiple references and dial options in stock |
| Selection | Current 226570 only, black or Polar dial | All five generations, both dial colors, vintage to unworn |
| Authentication | Guaranteed genuine from Rolex | Depends on dealer, WatchGuys authenticates every watch in-house |
| Warranty | 5-year Rolex warranty | 2-year WatchGuys warranty |
| Vintage Access | None, current production only | Full access to 1655, 16550, 16570, and 216570 references |
| Best For | Buyers who want the full AD unboxing experience and are willing to wait | Buyers seeking a specific reference, discontinued model, or immediate availability at competitive pricing |
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Call Us Text UsTHE BIG DECISION
Polar vs. Black Dial
The core debate every Explorer II buyer faces, and the one question we get asked more than any other.
The Polar (white) dial is the Explorer II's signature. It is the look that sets this watch apart from every other Rolex Professional model, and it is the configuration most closely associated with the collection's identity. The white face provides exceptional legibility in bright conditions, creates a striking contrast with the orange GMT hand, and gives the watch a distinctive personality that the black dial simply cannot replicate. On the secondary market, the Polar dial consistently commands a slight premium over the black, typically ranging from $500 to $1,500 more depending on the reference and condition.
The black dial, on the other hand, is the more versatile and traditional choice. It pairs easily with virtually any outfit, reads well in low-light conditions, and offers a more understated look that some buyers prefer for everyday wear. The black dial Explorer II is also easier to find on the secondary market and generally more affordable. For buyers who already own several white-dialed or light-dialed watches and want variety in their collection, the black dial is a strong pick.
Both configurations share identical specifications, movement, case, bracelet, and water resistance. The choice is purely aesthetic, and there is no wrong answer. That said, there is a reason the Polar dial has become synonymous with the Explorer II name.
"Polar. Every time. The white dial is the reason this watch exists in the conversation. A black-dial Explorer II is a fine watch, but it blends in with a dozen other Rolex models. The Polar stands alone. If you are buying an Explorer II, buy the one that makes it an Explorer II."
| Polar (White) Dial | Black Dial | |
|---|---|---|
| Signature Look | Yes, the defining Explorer II aesthetic | More traditional Rolex sports watch look |
| Secondary Market Premium | Typically $500 – $1,500 higher | Generally trades at the lower end of the range |
| Legibility | Excellent in daylight, strong contrast | Excellent in low light, classic readability |
| Versatility | Sporty and casual, stands out on the wrist | Dressier and more subdued, pairs with everything |
| Collector Demand | Higher demand, especially for 16570 and 226570 | Steady demand, easier to source on secondary market |
| Best For | Buyers who want the iconic Explorer II look | Buyers who prefer understated versatility |
Need Help Deciding?
Our watch specialists can walk you through the differences between references and help you find the right Explorer II.
Speak To a RepresentativeCOLLECTOR CULTURE
Rolex Explorer II Nicknames
The names collectors use to identify specific Explorer II variants and references.
Like most Rolex collections with a long production history, the Explorer II has picked up a number of collector nicknames over the decades. These nicknames are not official Rolex designations, but they are widely used in the community and are helpful to know when shopping the secondary market.
Polar
The white-dial Explorer II, named for its resemblance to a snow-covered polar landscape. This is the most commonly used Explorer II nickname and applies to the white dial variant across all references from the 16550 onward.
Refs. 16550, 16570, 216570, 226570 (white dial)
Freccione
Italian for "big arrow," referring to the oversized orange 24-hour hand on the original reference 1655. This nickname captures the distinctive, arrow-tipped GMT hand that defines the first-generation Explorer II.
Ref. 1655
Steve McQueen
A nickname for the 1655 stemming from a 1970s Rolex advertising campaign that used the actor's image to boost sales. Despite the moniker, no evidence exists that McQueen ever actually wore an Explorer II. He was known for wearing a Submariner.
Ref. 1655
Cream Dial / Panna
A subset of early 16550 Polar dials developed a creamy ivory patina over time due to a paint defect. Rolex eventually corrected the issue, making these aged cream dials some of the most desirable Explorer II variants among collectors.
Ref. 16550 (select white dial examples)
Rail Dial
A highly collectible dial variant found on both the 1655 and some 16550 examples, identified by the alignment of the two "C" characters in "Chronometer" and "Certified" on the lower portion of the dial.
Refs. 1655 (Mk III), 16550 (select examples)
BUYER'S CHECKLIST
How to Buy a Rolex Explorer II
Five steps to buying a pre-owned Explorer II with confidence.
- Decide on your generation and dial color. The Explorer II spans five references across 50+ years. Narrow your search to a specific generation based on your budget, preferred case size (39mm, 40mm, or 42mm), and whether you want the Polar or black dial. This decision will define your price range and available inventory.
- Verify authenticity and originality. Confirm the watch has matching serial and reference numbers on the case. For vintage references (1655, 16550, 16570), verify that the dial, hands, bezel, and bracelet are period-correct and not replacement parts. Refinished dials and mismatched components are common on older Explorer II models. Buy from a trusted dealer like WatchGuys that authenticates every watch in-house.
- Inspect condition and bracelet stretch. Check the case edges for signs of over-polishing, which rounds off the lugs and reduces value. On older references, inspect the Oyster bracelet for stretch between the links. A heavily stretched bracelet can cost over $1,000 to replace. On the 226570 and 216570, the modern Oyster bracelet is far more durable, but still worth inspecting.
- Prioritize complete sets. A full set (box, warranty card, hang tags, booklets) adds significant value and makes future resale easier. For the 226570 and 216570, expect the warranty card to be the most important document. For the 16570 and earlier, original paperwork is rarer and commands a higher premium.
- Understand the service history. Ask whether the watch has been recently serviced and by whom. A Rolex service center overhaul typically costs $800 to $1,200+ and resets the movement to factory specifications. For neo-vintage references like the 16570, knowing the last service date helps you budget for upcoming maintenance. The Caliber 3285 in the 226570 has a recommended service interval of approximately 10 years.
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Call Us Text UsTECHNICAL DATA
Rolex Explorer II Specifications
Full technical specifications for the current-production reference 226570.
Case Size
42mm diameter, 12.5mm thickness
Case Material
Oystersteel (904L stainless steel)
Movement
Caliber 3285, automatic, COSC-certified Superlative Chronometer (+/- 2 sec/day)
Power Reserve
Approximately 70 hours
Water Resistance
100 meters (330 feet)
Bezel
Fixed, 24-hour graduated, brushed Oystersteel
Crystal
Scratch-resistant sapphire with Cyclops lens over the date
Bracelet
Oyster, three-piece solid links, Oysterlock folding clasp with Easylink 5mm comfort extension
Dial Options
Black or White (Polar), Chromalight luminescence (blue glow)
